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Malt Shovel Brewery (James Squire Beers), Camperdown

MALT SHOVEL BREWERY (JAMES SQUIRE BEERS)

Address: 99-101 Pyrmont Bridge Rd, Camperdown, Sydney            

Type:  Brewery            

Beers : The James Squire range mainly – “One Fifty Lashes” Pale Ale, “Stowaway” IPA, “Chancers” Golden Ale, “Nine Tails” Amber Ale, “Four Wives” Pilsener and more. Nine mainstay beers widely available. Also other ranges, including the Mad Brewers beers.

                        SCBJSquires

 www.jamessquire.com.au

 

Until 1993, this brewery was the source of the famous Hahn beers, made by master brewer Chuck Hahn. It was then bought by the brewing giant Lion, and re-named as the Malt Shovel Brewery. Certainly the best known craft beers made at the Malt Shovel are in the James Squire range of nine mainstay brews, still made under the supervision of Chuck Hahn.

Sceptics may say that a Lion owned brewery cannot produce true craft beers, but they would be judging too harshly. I am happy to say that these are real and genuine, traditional beers brewed with care and honesty.

The James Squire range is to be seen in many pubs and retail outlets, and probably qualifies as the most widely available Sydney craft beer. What it is to have a Lion behind you.

James Squire, the man who gave his name to this range of beers, is best known for his convict past and for being Australia’s first brewer, or at least the first commercial brewer. He was sent from England to Australia in chains for the crime of stealing some chickens – a paltry offence if you ask me. He arrived in Sydney with the First Fleet in 1788. After serving his sentence, he became a free man and started a brewery at Kissing Point on the Parramatta River, in 1798. This was called “The Malting Shovel” and ran for 24 years, using hops grown in Sydney. That is fairly amazing, given the hot, often dry climate that Sydney is well-known for.

As well as having a career as a brewer, James Squire later actually became a constable, and later, his grandson became the first Premier of New South Wales.

Rather than list the fairly big range of beers, please have a look at the James Squire website, which explains the choice in detail.

 SCBJSquires3

My favourites are:

James Squire “Stowaway” India Pale Ale, clear copper with tastes of lychee, caramel and minerals. A long bitter hop finish, and 5.6% ABV. This is dry-hopped with English Fuggles, to give lots of bitter hoppy flavour.

James Squire “The Chancer” Golden Ale, clear, deep caramel colour with added roasted wheat that produces toasty flavours and tropical fruit flavours – think mango – from Amarillo hops. Clean, citrusy and refreshing. A cleverly constructed beer with 4.5% ABV.

James Squire “One Fifty Lashes” Pale Ale, gold and slightly hazy, a light aroma of citrus and grapefruit. With added malted wheat, there are notes of lemon, grapefruit and passionfruit with a long nectar finish.

The Malt Shovel Brewery also produces much of the “Kosciusko” Pale Ale and the amazing Mad Brewers exotic and outrageous one-off brews.

I tried the Mad Brewers “Garden de Paradisi”, a limited release Witbier or Wheat Beer ; this is cloudy, gold and with strong aromas of fruit, wheat and spice. Apparently as well as the addition of lime and mandarin peel, a rare West African spice called “Grana Paridisi” (Grains of Paradise) is used in the brew. Delicious, with spice, citrus and African mystery along with 6.2% ABV.

This brewery can only be visited by prior arrangement and is not open to the public. I know, I knocked on the door for five minutes and I still didn’t get in. Hey guys, how about setting up a regular tour time, say once every month?}

John Boston Beers, formerly Ultimo

JOHN BOSTON PREMIUM BEVERAGES

Address: 66 Bay St, Ultimo, Sydney (office address) – originally – now re-branded under Pinnacle (Woolworths) Drinks      

Type:  Contract Brewer           

Beers : ”John Boston” Premium Lager and “Boston’s (Mill)” Pale Ale BUT under the new ownership from mid-2014, “The Guard House” Golden Ale and “The Point” Pale Ale

                       

SCBBoston

www.johnboston.com.au  (being updated)

This is the original John Boston, from the Wine Society in Ultimo, in 2014.

The John Boston beers made and sold by Pinnacle Drinks are completely different. I will report on these later.

The funny bits still apply. Please read on…

John Boston Premium Beverages produces two craft beers ; a Premium Lager and a Pale Ale. The company is named after John Boston, surgeon and apothecary, who arrived in Sydney aboard the “Surprize” in 1794. Losing no time, John immediately set up a salted fish works, then built a windmill to grind corn and soon went on to found a soap factory and a boat-builders. As if this wasn’t enough, he is said to have made the first beer in Australia in 1796, using maize ground in his mill, and with the bitter flavours derived from the local Cape gooseberry plant.

After this. everything seemed to go wrong.  In 1804, John Boston sailed on one of his ships to Tonga, where he was set upon by the locals and killed. Apparently, they then cooked him and ate him.

Then to add insult to injury, history then records that James Squire, a convict, who later became a free man, started brewing beer sometime between 1790 and 1793, and he used real hops in his brew. This would mean that James Squire, not John Boston, was the first to make beer in Australia.

With the inaccuracies of early Colonial dates, it is not clear whether John Boston or James Squire gets the line honours for being first brewer. Both men have their supporters, especially as both have big beer brands named after both of them.  James Squire definitely did go on to start Sydney’s first commercial brewery, in 1798.

So we may never be quite sure who was the first brewer in Australia, as we learn from this dubious conversation between the two men, noted early in 1796 ;

“’Now listen here, James, I was first’ ‘No, you listen, John…’”.

The other more recent mystery concerns the “Boston’s Mill” Pale Ale. This is clear, toffee-coloured and with an aroma of caramel and roasted hazelnuts. The taste is malty, with caramel and a hint of chocolate, followed by a pleasing hop finish. This is 4.9% ABV, and gets its flavours from a combination of pale and crystal malts.

I photographed the bottle when I’d finished (as you do), to prove to readers that the label on MY bottle clearly says it is “Boston’s” Pale Ale. No mention of a mill here, although the picture is still visible.

Anyway, John Squire…I mean John Boston would be proud of these two beers if he could taste them today. Only four pure and natural ingredients are used – water, hops, malt and yeast. John Boston beers are available in the larger retailers.

As stated above, from mid-2014, the John Boston label has become that of a more mainstream beer, under corporation ownership. The main ones are “The Guard House” Golden Ale and “The Point” Pale Ale. Farewell to the Windmill…and the original Wine Society beer.